Sending Smith's Route

This particular adventure begins on the day before, with me and Joe beginning the long drive to the North Face car park beneath Ben Nevis. We arrived at the car park and converted Joe's Golf into a surprisingly comfortable sleeping area.Who needs a travel lodge? We headed to bed at 10:30 pm in preparation for our 4:30 am wake up time the following morning.

I woke up feeling fine and was able to roll out of the car and immediately start stuffing my face with a syrup sponge for breakfast. We began the walk in at 5:10 am, making quick progress up the track, this was the first time either of us had done it when it wasn't covered in deep snow. The sun began to rise at about 6 am and we were soon able to turn our head torches off. Ben Nevis came into view soon after leaving the forest.

I need to invest in a camera, a bit grainy in the low light. First glimpses of the sun.

First look at the Ben

The route we had in mind was "Smith's Route" (V,5) on Gardyloo Buttress. This route is probably the highest starting climb on Ben Nevis, starting at about 1200 metres, also one of the furthest from the car park. It involves 4 pitches, the first 2 of which are steep ice with a section of fully vertical ice on pitch 2. The rest of the climb is an exposed romp up a grade 2 arete, sounds fantastic? It was!

As we crept closer the sun inched higher into the sky, casting ever more light onto the towering ramparts of the North Face. The views became more incredible and I was reminded why some people decide to dedicate themselves fully to hill walking.

North East Buttress, looking resplendent

North East Buttress tucked behind Tower Ridge, with the CIC hut in the foreground.

Hot (or should I say cold?) Dang

Ben Nevis had changed a lot since my last visit. The snow surrounded the mountain like a lace dress as opposed to blanket of snow covering everything down to sea level in January. The snow pack had changed too, it was very hard and well compacted making the risk of (another) avalanche very unlikely, this was backed up by the forecast. green and yellow all round! Joe had recently (and wisely) invested in avalanche transceivers which were safely pressed to our chests in case of the unlikely event of anything happening. More black rock poked out from between the white, sadly not much rime was left. Thankfully though there was more than enough present for some of the classic lines on the higher elevations.

Many had realised that conditions were still more than adequate and there was a tented village clustered around the CIC hut. we were glad to have woken up so early and as such we beat a lot of the crowds.

I hate sharing

We put on our crampons just after the CIC hut and began our slow and steady progress up Observatory Gully. Ahead of us were a few parties, fortunately most of the peeled off onto different routes along the flanks of Tower Ridge and North East Buttress. 

First Glimpses of Gardyloo Buttress at the top of Observatory Gully

The ground soon began to steepen up and our pace slowed down a ways, before long we had to get our axes out. By this point we had only 2 parties ahead of us both looking like they were heading for Smith's. Behind us was another (fitter) party who were advancing on us quickly. It later transpired that they were both guides one of whom was Tim Neil and so naturally moved a lot faster than either of us. I must say it's pretty cool to be able to rub shoulders with some of the worlds best winter climbers on a trip to Ben Nevis.

The ice smear of Smith's now clearly visible

We arrived at the bottom of the route at about 8:30 am with only two parties ahead of us, one of which had practically already started. The other was two students from Dundee Uni, one of whom was team GB member Anna Wells, More good Climbers! Whilst waiting in the queue a block of ice flew off the route and glanced my head and shoulder leading to a considerable ache for the rest of the day (practically the only downer, the rest I assure you is positive!). We were able to start climbing roughly an hour and a half later. Joe made quick work of the first section up to the cave belay.

Smith's looking absolutely amazing! Steeeeeeep!!

I soon followed and stood on a tiny ledge which had been kicked out of the ice by previous occupants of the belay, The last pitch had been steep but it was nothing compared to the second pitch. Naturally Joe was quite nervous as he stepped out to begin leading the steep section. Before committing to the crux Joe made a bomb shelter and preceded to tell me to watch him a near infinite number of times. I dutifully told him that I definitely was and encouraged him as he psyched himself for the pump fest that was to come. Soon he began to bust shapes up the steep ice, puffing and panting like a man on the run. Frankly Joe made the section look easy and was soon on a ledge just above the difficulties where he placed some more gear and took a well earned rest. The rest of the route was comparatively easy going and more on the legs than the arms, the ice began to deteriorate with height adding a worrying aspect to the last few metres of the pitch.

Now it was my turn, I'd rather not go into the details but it was a lot more inelegant than Joe's smooth ascent, but I made it over the crux sections without falling so regardless of how it looked it was still a clean ascent.

Then it was my lead, I romped up the easier upper sections of the route. Soon I found myself on an exposed arete which gave me spectacular views in all directions.

I can see the top!

The Beautiful arete

I could now see the top and quickly progressed up to the top unfortunately just as I poked my head over the top of the Ben I felt my ropes go taught, I had climbed a full 60 metres and had frustratingly run out of rope just short of the end so I descended a few metres and built a few snow anchors ready to bring Joe up. This meant that Joe (deservedly) topped out first and I quickly followed. At first I was blinded by the glaring sunshine which I was not used to, having climbed in the shadows all day. When my eyes re-adjusted I was met with this:

There's nowhere I'd rather be!

Victory Shot!

Summit cairn selfie, one of the highest people in Scotland

Unfortunately we couldn't linger very long on the summit and had to quickly begin the descent. As with the walk in the walk out was a joy and really finished off the day perfectly.

We descended via the tourist route and glissaded the majority of the way down, frustratingly however on our way down we were met with multiple of people heading either up or down lacking the necessary equipment to be properly safe on Scotland's highest mountain. Seeing these people always puts me a little on edge and worried for their safety. Next time just watch another box set!

The only other downer on the day was that I'd stored my crampons on the outside of my rucksack and unfortunately they fell out somewhere between the tourist route and the path up from the North Face car park, so if you happen to find them. Let me know! Thankfully they were free but it's still frustrating to have lost such an important piece of equipment.

One last look

In summary one of the best days climbing I've ever had (I seem to be saying this a lot, I guess any day spent climbing is a good day!). The weather was spectacular so was the route and the condition the Ice was in. Really I can't have wished for any more. 

Sadly this could be the end of the winter season for me with most mountainous areas steadily beginning to melt. If this were the case I hope next year is just as incredible as this year has been!