Now in no particular order:
1) Jack the Ripper E1 5b, Stac Pollaidh
After spending a day climbing on Stac Pollaidh at the end of last summer in glorious sunny weather, you begin to wonder why this part of the world isn't more popular with climbers. The views are unlike anything else in Scotland. The landscape is pitted with thousands of erratic pools separated by large mountains which rise abruptly out of the ground and then plummet back to earth again as suddenly as they rose. Viewed from afar Stac Pollaidh looks more like Erebor from lord of the rings than a real mountain.
A climber tops out on Jack the Ripper, showing the beauty of the surroundings. source:http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=118942 |
Jack the Ripper takes a line up the furthest right hand end of No.1 Buttress and the top pitch of the climb is what gets me the most excited. The pitch weaves its way up awkward slabs by corners and finger crack. The pictures I have seen of this pitch look absolutely fantastic and perfectly in keeping with my preferred style of climbing, technical and balance-y climbing on mountain crags with awesome views and exposure!
Doesn't it just look amazing? source: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=36258 |
This is probably going to be one of the more difficult climbs to complete this year, not due to the technical difficulty of the climbing but due to the difficulty of finding someone who wants to climb in such a remote part of Scotland.
2) Steeple E2 5c, Shelterstone Crag
Shelterstone Crag has to be my favourite crag that I have ever climbed on. The combination of huge mountain routes in a beautiful situation has no down sides. Steeple is arguably the most classic and famous line up the crag, more so than the Needle which recently topped my list of my top climbs of 2014. So fingers crossed when I get on it this summer I'll have an even better time than I did on the Needle (is that posssible?).
the first of the two corner pitches. source: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=178362 |
3) Wings of Unreason E4 6a, The Roaches Skyline
I absolutely love dynos and this route is basically just one big dyno, enough said. (also I have an unfair advantage being tall)
I think his face says it all. Source: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=73462 |
4) The South Ridge Direct VS 5a, Cir Mhor (South Face)
This climb recently featured in a list on UKC of the best VS climbs in the country, and at 13 pitches long it also has to be on of the longest. I've wanted to climb on Arran ever since I looked at the climbing available on the island in Gary Latters guidebook. From the sounds of it the climb is a proper adventure following almost all varieties of crack up the arching back of the south face of Cir Mhor. To me it sounds like the perfect mid grade day out!
Cir Mhor with the line of the climb in blue. source: http://www.bremex.org.uk/blog/climbing-and-scrambling-aran-may-2013/ |
5) Quietus E2 5c, Stanage Plantation
My experience of climbing on the grit is limited to one days top roping with my dad when I was about 10, and my experience of climbing trad roofs is none. The line this climb takes is just so cool that I couldn't care less and want to climb it regardless. Apparently high in the grade and very physical, i'm going to need to practise my jamming technique and get a bit stronger before I attempt this one.
Feel the pump. source: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=180081 |
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