We've reached the end of the year and what a year its been for me, I've definitely done more outdoor climbing this year than the previous 5 combined, as a result I've had a tough time deciding on a top 5, some of these routes were chosen for the fun I had on the rock and others for the whole experience of the climb its surroundings (yes, as a Scotsman I enjoy 2-3 hour walk ins, it makes it an adventure!)
So without further a do here's my top 5!
5) The Groove (VS 5a), Dunkeld; Craig a Barns
As the only single pitch climb and the only roadside climb on the list this had to be a technical joy to climb, fortunately it lived up to the expectations that the 3 star rating gave it. The climbing is some of the most fun and varied I've ever done! I even managed to squeeze in my favourite move (the drop knee) twice before the top.
The climb literally has a little bit of everything, a small overhang, technical slab climbing, a corner crack, many finger cracks, and a very thin hand traverse. This all crammed into 30 metres of climbing at a roadside crag... if you don't believe me, try it for yourself! gear was plentiful, so I was free to enjoy the climbing, and upon reaching the top, the climb was coupled with the easiest anchor set-up I've ever done (slinging a tree wider than I am) and glorious views over the Perthshire countryside!
4) Squareface (VD), Garbh Coire of Beinn a'Bhuird (4*)
In terms of remoteness, this is by far the most remote climb I have ever done and probably will do in Scotland. This ultra classic Vdiff entails an 7 hour round trip (not including the climbing itself) spent on bikes and walking. The day began with an early start in Tomintoul. Thankfully the sun was shining making the journey a joy.
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| still another hour to go! approaching Garbh Coire |
The quality of the rock once the climb is reached is fantastic, some interesting route finding worms an easy route up the cliff, putting you in some awesome spots with amazing views over the southern Cairngorms making this an incredibly memorable way to spend a day off. The final pitch for me was the best, I chose to go up the slightly more challenging wide crack which I discovered too late was too wide for my largest cam, so the last pitch was almost gearless, which only added to the exposure! after 2 hours on the route and 7 hours travelling it was a proper day out!
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| Squareface Buttress, containing the 4* classic "Squareface" |
3) Original Route (VS 5a), Old man of Stoer
This route probably takes the biscuit in terms of adventure, and we chose the day perfectly! we managed to avoid the crowds that were reported to be on the route the day before. The approach was nice apart from a "steep scramble" which was more like vertical choss. Setting up the Tyrolean traverse and having to swim across the channel to the base of the route only added to the fun of the climb.
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| the old man of stoer, the "steep scramble" is to the left. blissful sunshine! |
The climbing itself was steep and challenging, but always good fun. The sun was perpetually shining making every belay ledge a good place to work on your sun tan. The top out is awesome too, I can't explain how great it feels to stand of a sea stack, you'll just have to find out for yourself! the descent is also one of the funnest abseils I've ever done, a huge free hanging abseil which Pete and I were able to do in a single ropes length due to rope stretch.
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| The Exposed traverse pitch, with Pete seconding |
2) Fallout Corner (VS 4b), Coire an Lochain
Despite only getting 2* from the SMC this has definitely been one of my favourite routes of the year. The second pitches is probably my favourite single lead I've ever done and my favourite corner pitch (I guess imagine this will change I've done centurion and cenotaph corner). The setting is idyllic, though it was a tad chilly on the day. The climbing itself is so much fun and the gear is just fantastic. I was having so much fun that I sang Bob Marley up the whole pitch, much to Sams amusement! Not much to be said other than that, cracking climb, better than some 3 and 4 star routes I've done! well worth a go.
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| The Red line showing the path of pitch 2 |
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| Sam following my lead on the "glory Pitch" |
1) The Needle (E1 5b), Shelterstone Crag
This climb takes the number 1 spot on my climbing partners list and it occupies the same spot on mine. This is the longest single days climbing I've ever had spending about 8 hours worming my way to the top of one of the largest cliffs in the UK, every moment of the day was amazing, the walk was spent nervously contemplating what was going to be the largest undertaking in my climbing. Standing at the bottom of the crag your mind breaks with the sheer scale of 300 metres of the cleanest granite (makes you wonder about the nose). You simply cannot begin to foam at the mouth with excitement looking at it
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This sadly doesn't do the scale of the rock justice,
you've really got to go there yourself |
All of the hard pitches were amazing to climb, with the best two being the last two. The needle crack is a huge wide crack about 250m off the ground of the Avon basin, the crack is so deep that a draught blows out of it onto your face as if the mountain is breathing on you pretty cool stuff. The belay ledge before this pitch has to be one of the best I've ever been on. Small enough that I could dangle my legs over the edge, but large enough that I was still comfortable with incredible views of the Avon basin.
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me seconding the awesome "needle crack" for scale, the boulders at the bottom are the
size of buses |
the final pitch is more caving than climbing which has you climbing into the needle crack as it widens, then "threading the needle" under a chock stone and poking your head out of the middle of the mountain, hands down the best top out I've ever done, my screams of joy I imagine could be heard miles around.
So, the needle is deservedly my number 1 for pitch after pitch of amazing climbing on my favourite rock type in one of the coolest locations in Scotland. we'll see if it gets any better next year.
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As a little bonus feature I thought I'd do the most overrated climb of the year too, and so the prize goes to:
Cleansweep (VS 4c), Hells Lum
Despite many good reviews, and most people I talk to really enjoying this route, I personally didn't find it to be that fun. I'm not saying that its a bad route I'm just saying that I didn't particularly enjoy it. The lower pitches were soaking wet after an almost week long dry spell (does it ever dry out?). The surroundings were awesome especially with the conditions, but they're the surroundings and not the climbing itself, and of all the 5 pitches only the corner pitch for me was any good, by all means though don't let my bad review put you off go and find out for yourself!
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stood at the bottom of the wet cleansweep,
with Joe looking like he's taken something |
